Wednesday, May 30, 2012

A Great Mass in F Minor, Xena, & "The Garbo of The Skies"

One goal for my time here in Auckland is to take advantage of as many of the varied entertainment and cultural events at as many venues as possible. Some experiences are better than others, but I rarely regret any of them. My parents instilled us with a pre-Nike ethos of "Just-do-it-ness". Rarely, when the setting and the performance mesh something truly extraordinary occurs.
I am in no way an experienced or sophisticated classical music aficianado, so I didn't know what to expect when we went to see a performance by the Auckland Choral and the New Zealand Symphony Orchestra of Anton Bruckner's "Great Mass in F Minor". I knew nothing of the composer, the work, or the performers, but it turned out to be one of the most perfect performances I have ever experienced.
The main reason I went was because I wanted to something in the venerable Auckland Town Hall

Built in 1911, it is a beautiful neoclassical oval building, dominated bu the magnificent Klais Pipe organ, with its 5,391 pipes ranging in size from 6 mm. to 32 ft..
2008 Klais Organ
Original 1911 configuration
The program opened with three solo organ pieces, Bach's Fantsia and Fugue in G Minor and two brief modern numbers, followed by intermission. Then the organist was joined by the 115 member Choral and the full NZ Symphony Orchestra.

Composed in the 1860's, the Great Mass in F Minor  is not to be confused with the 1968 album by the Electric Prunes Mass in F Minor. My words cannot express the sensation of being enveloped by the gorgeous combination of the great organ with the glorious choral and orchestra in that beautiful jewel of a concert space. I wish you could have been there. The only comparable experience I have had was as a student in 1971, standing room for Rigoletto  at the Vienna Opera.

Other entertainments has been less sublime, but lots of fun nonetheless. For example, the New Zealand International Comedy Festival is a huge annual month-long event with hundreds of shows in Auckland and spreading out to the rest of the country. Shows we caught included: 
1) Dead Cat Bounce-"Ireland’s favourite comedy rock & roll supergroup" - They put on a great, fun show to a small crowd, and I always respect the professionalism of performers that do that. (Like when I saw Helen Reddy in Laughlin, NV----no lie!) Check out their video "Rugby".
2) Rhys Darby -Hilarious, best know in US as Murray in The Flight of The Conchords. He presented "This Way To The Spaceship", his one-man show based on his book about preparations for the upcoming 2012 Mayan apocalypse. 
Rhys
3) 7 Days - A live performance of our favorite NZ TV show, a weekly comedic look at the news- the way we keep up on Kiwi current events.
4) Constantinople- Pretty much impossible to describe product of Fringe festivals; combines history, togas, farce, more togas, jock straps, grapes, bread, and disco. Starting at 11 pm in the basement of the grand Civic Theater, ending with a disco ball and dancing. On describing this event to Sofia the next day, she was shocked and dismayed hear we had in essence been out "clubbing" and did  not even know it.

I also caught other shows (besides Jersey Boys  and Nick Lowe I wrote about in prior postings), such as:
5) The Loons Circus Theatre Company presented "Hanussen- The Palace of Burlesque", a play, circus,and  burlesque tribute to Erik Jan Hanussen (1889-1933), a clairvoyant, mentalist, occultist, and astrologer in Weimar and Nazi Germany; and
6) In The Other Room (or The Vibrator Play) -A play Linnea would enjoy set in 1880 about treatments with a new electrical device to treat female hysteria. 
7) I just saw Auckland born and bred Lucy Lawless (aka: Xena: Warrior Princess) perform a benefit concert at the small King's Arms Tavern. Her version of "G-L-O-R-I-A," the old Them/Van Morrison number, reminded me of my rendition at the Dixon Middle School lo those many years ago (no YouTube video of that exists; don't even look).  
Lucy (on left), rockin' the catsuit
We have seen plenty of movies, and museums too. I want to share a fantastic tale I found at the Museum of Transport and Technology, or MOTAT. In the 1930's, there were three legendary and stunning aviatrices setting flying records around the globe. We all know of Amelia Earhart, and England had Amy Johnson, but I knew nothing about the Kiwi Jean Batten. Her story is fascinating, and I can't imagine it happening in any other era.

In a nutshell, she was captivated by flying as a young girl from Rotorua, and with her mother's support she was determined to make aviation her life. They deceived her father by going to England under the guise of studying music, but Jean immediately began taking flying lesson. After only 20 hours of flight experience she announced her intention to break the record for flying from England to Australia. In 1934, after two failed attempts ended in crashes, she finally did it in under 15 days, beating the Amy Johnson's record by four days. She went on to set several more records over the next few years and become a world-wide celebrity.
Jean with her waxen double at Madame Tussauds in London
Many aspects of Jeans life are remarkable, as I learned from "Jean Batten- The Garbo of the Skies" , an excellent documentary which interweaves archival film with latter day interviews. She was rightly celebrated as an independent woman pioneer, yet her expensive ventures were financed by a series of wealthy fiances, none of which she ended up marrying. She was considered a stunning beauty, as you can see her here posing with her CBE (Commander of the Most Excellent Order of the British Empire) medal.
She and her mother had a complex intertwined relationship and were inseparable.
 
When WWII came, her type of exploits were considered frivolous. Mother and daughter became recluses and disappeared from the limelight, thus earning Jean the title of "The Greta Garbo of the Skies". They were in Jamaica for a while, then the Canary Islands, and eventually southern Spain. After her mother died in 1965, Jean made a bit of a reappearance in England and New Zealand society as an historical oddity.
She dyed her hair and attempted to look the ingenue, but after a while she retreated to her solitary life. In 1982 she was bitten by a dog in Mallorca, refused medical care, and died of infection a few days later. She had been so reclusive and fiercely protective of her privacy that her family did not know where she was, or that she was dead until a few years had passed. She was found buried in a pauper's grave in Spain.
 
The Auckland International airport is named in her honor. Few outside of New Zealand remember her now, which is a shame. Her story would make a great movie.
Jean Batten's Percival Gull displayed at the airport in Auckland

Saturday, May 12, 2012

A Visit From an Irish Lad and To Tutukaka (With Wreaths in Between)

FOC: Note the expert parking job and the Cal cap
After seven weeks working and exploring central Auckland by bus and by foot, it was time for us to spread our wings a bit and wander further afield. Our first opportunity was in mid-April when my Irish friend and former house officer from Timaru Florry O'Connell visited as our first (and to date only) flat-guest. Florry has the unique distinction of having visited us in Timaru, Perth, Fort Bragg, San Francisco, and now Auckland. As always, we had a fun-filled time, including good food, taking in Jersey Boys, touring the hospital and Domain, and a trip to the Parnell French market.
He rented a car, and we took off to the West Coast/Tasman Sea via West Auckland. I had heard it is quite beautiful, and we were not disappointed on the drive out to Karekare Beach,
Part of The Piano was filmed on the beach here.
and creek
and waterfall.
On the drive back we stopped for a break at a cafe with a panoramic view overlooking the whole of Auckland.
 
Later that week, on Wednesday April 25, the nation commemorated Anzac Day, the solemn Memorial Day for New Zealand and Australia begun to honor the WWI troops at Gallipoli, and now it includes all the wars of the last 100 years. It has some significance for us too because exactly two years ago in 2010, we arrived in NZ for the first time.We walked in an informal parade in the Newmarket district.
Later we attended the mid-day ceremony at the cenotaph in front of the Auckland War Memorial Museum
complete with multiple wreath-layings.
All of the countless Anzac monuments and cenotaphs throughout Australasia include the phrase "Lest we forget". I hope that in addition to remembering the sacrifice of the fallen warriors, we also remember the people who work to prevent such tragic conflicts.
The following weekend, it was our town to rent a car and head about three hours north to Tutukaka, a small boat harbor and the gateway to the Poor Knights Islands. A re-visit has been on my agenda since a brief stop our first time through in June 2010. 
The islands are a world-class site for diving (mostly scuba, which I don't do, but snorkeling is an option too), and the name is evocative. As with much in the antipodes, the name dates from Captain Cook's log, although a precise explanation is lacking. Two competing theories exist. The more mundane is that sailors thought the profile of the islands looked like a slain Crusader laying on his back with shield on his chest. This will be a very familiar story to any seasoned traveler, as almost any mountain is said to resemble some person, usually supine. (Queen Victoria, a sleeping Indian maiden, a Norse god anyone?) The second explanation is that it was said to resemble Capt. Cook's favorite breakfast treat, Poor Knights Pudding. When you look that up, it is described as French toast. I don't know about, you, but that is not what my French toast looks like.  
A Prone Crusader or French Toast?? You decide.
Anyhoo, the isles are 14 miles off the east coast and a nature and marine reserve. A wayward branch of the East Australian Current  comes by here. It is the "superhighway" that Nemo rode to Sydney and is the reason warmer water and tropical fishes like those of the Great Barrier Reef can be found ectopically here. Also, the geology is volcanic, not coral, so there is a steep fall-off from shore and deep clefts and crevices both above and below the water-line create dramatic arches,
sea caves, and lots of nooks and crannies for sea-life and divers to explore.
They claim to have the world's largest sea cave ("by volume") in Rikoriko Cave
The boat pulls inside and we had an extended time inside to swim. There was not a huge amount of fish like I have seen in Australia and Hawaii, but the water is quite clear and there is a lot of variety from the back of the cave to the front and from bottom to top. 
It was a beautiful site to see the light drift in from the mouth of the cave and to look below to see the scuba divers exploring with their lights and to watch the air bubbles float up like gigantic tapioca pearls.
Fayne didn't snorkel but she had an extra bonus meeting a Kiwi celebrity, Pete Bethune. He is an interesting dude, started out as an oil exploration engineer in the North Sea, and evolved in to a militant sea eco-warrior if you will, and staunch advocate of bio-fuels. I first read of him two years ago when his ship was sunk by a Japanese whaler and he was arrested, tried, and convicted of trespassing and other charges in Japan. Currently, he has assembled an international group of eco-commandos to patrol for illegal fishing off the shore of Africa (and hoping to make a reality show out of it). 
Pete Bethune and his Commandos
   It was a great day, and nice to be on the road again for the weekend. More adventures to follow.
Preparing for my mission, embarrassed to be told I have my wetsuit on backwards.
One of the Poor Knights- AKA Aorangi

Thursday, April 26, 2012

Work

(Author's note: Most of what follows is about my work. It may be a bit dry for some. If you do go down to the bottom there is some stuff about Greek Easter 2012.)
Auckland City Hospital
The reason I am in Auckland is the work (and the reason Fayne is here is because I am here.) It was a revelation when I worked in Timaru for ten months in 2010-11. I had no expectations, only that I would come, work, make some money, and see the country. How bad could it be? Well, it wasn't bad, it was extremely opposite of bad. I worked in a team with people I liked as a mentor to young, curious, enthusiastic junior doctors who were not jaded or cynical. My years of experience and knowledge were appreciated and rewarded. The schedule and pace of life were extremely humane. Paid vacation and educational leave, public holidays, and overtime was something I never had before.
And so, before leaving Timaru in March 2011, I started the process to get a permanent medical license (called a vocational medical registration here), with the thought that if I do future work in NZ it  will be easier to arrange. The Medical Council declared if I worked three more months, at least one in a big hospital, I could undergo a VPA (vocational practice assessment), the final piece of the puzzle. I should sit for the VPA in July 2012. As I understand it, two physicians follow you for a day, "make sure you are not an ax murderer" (although how they will determine this I am not sure), review charts and clinic visits, and interview colleagues. People who have been through this say it is basically pro forma.
Initially I inquired about going back to Timaru but they had no openings, so I worked with a kiwi woman who helped me find the Timaru job, and we found an opportunity at Auckland City Hospital, the central hospital in New Zealand's biggest city. I thought if I was successful here as well as in a smaller rural setting, it would bode well for working anywhere in the country.
The hospital is a 15 minute walk from our apartment and the complex houses several buildings. For me, the two main ones are the new and the old adult hospital buildings. The new building opened in 2003 and is nine levels high and houses the ED, acute wards, and ORs. It is designed around two large atria so that even internal rooms have windows and a source of daylight.
On the third level there is a very pleasant coffee area for staff. (Tea or coffee with the team mid-morning is a tradition.) The elevators are unclad and you can see their workings, a design which reminds me of the Pompidou Center in Paris.
The medical wards are on Level 6. The whole complex is complemented by many carefully-chosen New Zealand artworks.
The old hospital building has been converted into the Support Building, with clinics, medical offices, labs, etc., although there still are a few rehab wards on upper floors. It is an impressive 14 stories high, and has commanding views of the city center, Auckland Domain, and the harbor and gulf islands.
I appreciate that the two buildings connect smoothly at each level, so going from my 6th floor office in the old to the ward in the new is easy. Speaking of my office, it is in a large space where senior and junior medical officers, clerical, and other support people in General Medicine work.
A few people have doors, but most are like me and don't.It is quite a change from Timaru where we each had our own private office converted from the old nurses' dormitory rooms.
My desk on the left
How does the work compare to Timaru? It surprised me to find things were more similar than dissimilar. I thought things might be more posh in the big city, but New Zealand is a very egalitarian society.Most patients are in four- or six-bed mixed gender rooms with no TV's, which are down the hall in the lounge. There are many more specialist services here (neurology, cardiology, respiratory, etc.) and getting their input in consultation is quicker and easier there still is a significant queue for MRI's, elective surgery, or anything invasive if you are over, say, 70. In fact, the critical care unit here is run like a closed shop by the Critical Care doctors. It is much harder to get a medical patient into the ICU in Auckland than in Timaru.
The population here is more diverse, with over 1,000 distinct ethnic and national groups. There is plenty of work for translators. All of the different South Pacific island nations are well  represented, and certain problems (such as very severe gout) are much more commonly seen.
One other obvious difference here is the larger size. In the South, we had one medical ward, four or five consultants each with one house surgeon and maybe a medical student per team. Here there are four medical ward services, each with 5-7 senior doctors(like me) on the roster. My squad with the Black Team changes weekly and includes one Registrar (like a US senior Resident or Fellow), one or two house officers (think intern or junior Resident), a junior medical student, and sometimes a senior student (called a Training Intern, or TI). Keeping everyone straight is mind-boggling to me and to the patients, but somehow it works.
As in Timaru, the staff come from many countries around the globe, and they have been friendly and welcoming to me, but it not going to be the same camaraderie as in a small town. I just learned of a weekly Wednesday pub trivia quiz that some of the staff frequent, so maybe we will add that to our schedule.
My main job is conducting the ward rounds and directing the care plans, but also includes some clinics, teaching sessions, and attending various educational sessions. I will also be involved in an audit of patients admitted here with diabetic ketoacidosis over the last 15 years, so I am managing to fill my time.
The Auckland District Health Board (ADHB, the entity which pays me) announced that they have an unexpectedly large deficit, and will institute austerity measures such as a hiring freeze and reduced cafeteria service. Hummm....It's a good thing I am not paranoid, otherwise I might think it is my fault.


On a different topic, Sunday April 15 was Greek Easter. There is not a huge Greek community here, but I did find the local church in the phone book. I couldn't tell if any activities were planned, but made a point to go out and walk by hoping to pay my respects. At first, it was not clear if anything was going on, but on looking in there was a lively traditional celebration happening.
We were warmly welcomed by the priest and the parishioners, and invited to partake in the roast lamb with all the trimmings, red eggs,
 
and home-baked bread and cookies (kouloudia, not as delicious as my yaiyai  or sister Angela made before we left, but nourishment for my soul none-the-less).

Sunday, April 8, 2012

The Waldorf Tetra- Our "Home Away From Home"

One big difference between Timaru last year and now in Auckland is that I have to provide my own housing here. A cozy three bedroom house just across the street from the hospital and Botanic Garden was NOT included. Fortunately, we had spent some time in central Auckland before, and booked a comfortable one BR apartment for the first week to give us time to search. We were greeted by headlines like those above and found the rental market quite tight. The population in Auckland is growing, perhaps in part due to people relocating from Christchurch to escape the damage of the quakes.
Fortunately, just around the corner a one-bedroom apartment was available at the Waldorf Tetra, an 11-story hotel/apartment rental.

We are on the 9th floor, somewhat ominously in unit 911. It isn't exactly what I had fantasized about before coming to Auckland.The micro-environment on the street is mostly mini-marts and small snack shops amidst the buildings of two large schools, the University of Auckland and Auckland University of Technology (so we don't quite match the demographics of the neighborhood). But it is a 15 minute walk to work, affordable, and very close to interesting things in all directions, so it will do nicely.  
Let's take a tour.
It is my guess that the two rooms were originally two separate hotel rooms, which would explain the unusual configuration of one-bedroom, two bathrooms (no tubs, just showers: tubs are few and far between in NZ). When you enter, you are immediately in the kitchen space, with a dorm-sized fridge, two burner stove, and microwave (we bought a toaster-oven to broaden our cooking options)..
The living room is quite basic, a love-seat, chair, small table, desk, and cable TV.


One of the two bathrooms is off of the living room.
The bedroom is pleasant with a small table and an armoire.

The best thing about the unit is the view of the ubiquitous Sky Tower, by day
and night.
There is even a peek at the Auckland Harbour Bridge over Waitemata Harbour.
It can get awfully stuffy in the afternoons since there is a lot of pm sun,only two windows in each room open a crack, and there is no AC. But enough complaining.
We are enjoying the advantages of living in the major city in New Zealand. Many acts on their way to tour Australia pass by here. We saw singer-songwriter Nick Lowe last week (I saw him before in 1971 in Munich!),
Nick Lowe
and Lucinda Williams and Steve Earle will be performing separately this week at venues just a short walk from here.
Easter weekend is a big holiday here. Most people have a four-day weekend, Friday through Easter Monday. I got Friday off (but work Monday).  We walked the 6 miles to the top of One Tree Hill, a site important in NZ history and also a title of a U2 song.
The view from the top was spectacular, to the north overlooking Hauraki Gulf opening eastward to the Pacific,
 
 and looking south to Manukau Harbour emptying west to the Tasman Sea.
Another Easter tradition in this part of the world is the Easter Show. I first heard of it last year when we were in Sydney, where it is a really big deal. There is one here too, and you could see it from the top of the hill.
See the white tents in the center
It is  like a large county fair, with agricultural exhibits mixed with carnival rides, junk food, and random other entertainments (acrobats, strong men, lumberjacks, etc.) ie: good old-fashioned fun.
Competitive sheep shearing
Adorable piglets

Easter Sunday we were invited out to Waiheke Island for brunch with the Clinical Director of General Medicine, Dr. Robyn Toomath and her husband John. We feasted on smoked fish cakes, salad, orange cake, and local wine on their sunny deck overlooking the Gulf. It was a gorgeous, perfect day.
We had time to pick up a few seasonal treats on our way back to the apartment.
Happy Easter Everyone!

Next post, I'll write about work a bit.